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27

Jan

11 Writing Commandments

Henry_miller

I got this from Nicole’s Facebook page. :-) Awesome stuff. 


Work Schedule, 1932-1933

-Henry Miller Miscellanea

COMMANDMENTS

1. Work on one thing at a time until finished.

2. Start no more new books, add no more new material to “Black Spring”. [Black Spring is Miller’s second published novel]

3. Don’t be nervous. Work calmly, joyously, recklessly on whatever is in hand.

4. Work according to Program and not according to mood. Stop at the appointed time!

5. When you can’t create you can work.

6. Cement a little every day, rather than add new fertilizers.

7. Keep human! See people, go places, drink if you feel like it.

8. Don’t be a draught-horse! Work with pleasure only.

9. Discard the Program when you feel like it -but go back to it next day. Concentrate. Narrow down. Exclude.

10. Forget the books you want to write. Think only of the book you are writing.

11. Write first and always. Painting, music, friends, cinema, all these come afterwards.

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03

Jan

Gay Men Don’t Get Fat

Yes, it’s true. The thinnest people I know are gay, mostly because they watch what they eat, and work out like mad. While Simon Doonan isn’t exactly the most politically correct of all writers, don’t you just love how he generalizes for laughs? We don’t have to take ourselves seriously all the time. 

Simon_doonan-050908-260x390

Simon Doonan via Fashionista

For the unintiated, Simon Doonan is a British window dresser who has since moved to the US to to work as the creative director of Barneys New York. Witty, irreverent, and crazy-funny, he also writes a column on style in Slate Magazine, similar to his column before in The New York Observer. I have two of his books: Eccentric Glamour (which talked about glamorous eccentrics like Tilda Swinton, Dita von Teese, Lucy Liu, Chloe Sevigny, Iman, and my favorite eccentric Isabella Blow) and Wacky Chicks (where he profiles actress Amy Sedaris, Warhol muse Brigid Berlin, the woman who taught Madonna how to vogue: Susanne Bartsch, and so on).

Doonanbooks

He was on ANTM cycle 2,3, and 5, where he taught models how to style themselves, on Gossip Girl 5, and there was even a comedy based on his life (from his memoir Beautiful People) by BBC.

Simonhailsacab

Out on the streets of New York via NYT

Plus, he’s the husband of fashion designer (now dabbling in interior and furniture design) Jonathan Adler! 

Jonathan_adler
Jonathan Adler via Apartment Therapy

In any case, the book will be out on Thursday, so I don’t have a copy of this yet. :-) Here are some interesting tidbits from the book and from his interview with the New York Times

1. You must be wary of the panini, there’s an enormous amount of meat and cheese there.

2. “Gay chips are baked, straight chips are fried.”

3. If you want to lose weight, try to eat like a gay man. 

4. The world’s culinary options can be reduced to either gay or straight food. A balance of both (bisexual eating LOL) will give you the best of both worlds.

5. Straight food tends to be leaden, full of protein, and thick with fat.

6. Gay food is lighter and brighter, feels art-directed, with attention to aesthetic and dietary detail.

7. “Lesbian” food refers to earthy, healthful foods, mostly of the organic sort.

8. Mexican food is straight, Japanese food is gay.

9. Caesar salad is straight (because of the egg).

10. “I can’t believe any red-blooded straight guy can even walk into a macaron shop. If you wanted to ruin a politician’s career, just publish a picture of him shopping for macarons.”

Gaymendont-259x400

 

SIMON DOONAN - GAY MEN DON’T GET FAT from Benjamin Morsberger on Vimeo.

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31

Dec

Goodbye 2011

I won’t be writing a long farewell letter to 2011 because I haven’t got the time to dawdle—the party’s already starting outside. See you all in 2012!
Sent from my BlackBerry® wireless handheld

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27

Dec

Divine Procrastinator

I’m in the middle of doing three things at the same time—all of which require full and undivided attention. Then again, I’m just about ready to give up on one (an architectural discourse on aesthetics) mostly because the deadline has been missed, but I’m rather excited for the two things I’m doing alternately: a longform story on muses, and the design for a store, both of which are due tomorrow. 

As you may have noticed, it’s hard for me to just do one thing, because I tend to become so focused when I’m working that I don’t eat, I don’t go out of the house, and I don’t wash my hair (yuck). So it helps me when I’m working on two things at the same time, mostly because I get to rush myself into making a draft or a scheme, and then just work around to perfecting it. 

[Right now, I need to rest my eyes and my brain, without falling asleep. Right now, there are two dinner drinking parties I should have attended, but can’t, given the fact that I’m in deadly deadline danger. Right now, I wish I could split myself up and work on these three things without feeling fatigued.] 

To alleviate my pain, I decided to look at pretty things, like this library I found in a design blog:

Tons_of_books_domino
Via Apartment 412

I’m looking at books because I read through 5 of them just this week. I’m on a reading ban now, until I finish all these things I have to do. 

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23

Nov

Be Drunk

Be Drunk by Charles Baudelaire
translated by Louis Simpson

You have to be always drunk. That’s all there is to it—it’s the only way. So as not to feel the horrible burden of time that breaks your back and bends you to the earth, you have to be continually drunk.

But on what? Wine, poetry or virtue, as you wish. But be drunk.

And if sometimes, on the steps of a palace or the green grass of a ditch, in the mournful solitude of your room, you wake again, drunkenness already diminishing or gone, ask the wind, the wave, the star, the bird, the clock, everything that is flying, everything that is groaning, everything that is rolling, everything that is singing, everything that is speaking…ask what time it is and wind, wave, star, bird, clock will answer you: “It is time to be drunk! So as not to be the martyred slaves of time, be drunk, be continually drunk! On wine, on poetry or on virtue as you wish.”

06

Nov

styleanthologist:

In the biggest casting coup to date, Vogue editors join forces in a photoshoot with Frederic Aranda for Fashion Night Out Tokyo. In a rare showing, the editors converged to support Japan as it recovers from the earthquake and tsunami disasters this year.
See who’s who from left to right:
Yolanda Sacristan (Spain) - Seated, wearing a sheer long-sleeved top and a black maxi skirt that showed off her legs. Don’t you just love her jade-encrusted cocktail ring and her bracelets? 
Kirstie Clements (Australia) - She’s not a socialite like the other editors, and even if Vogue Australia has gotten a lot of criticism for reprinting editorials, the products she features are very accessible and she likes having a lot of illustration on her pages—remember that Vogue 50th anniversary special with Cate Blanchett on the cover? I’m not a big fan of her frumpy polka-dot-top, but I’m sure she looks better standing than sitting down.
Anaita Adajania (India) - Sitting at the back is Anaita Shroll Adajania who is actually Vogue India’s Fashion Director (the EIC is Priya Tanna). I wish Priya Tanna had a chance to be in this shoot because she’s a true fashion journalist—she pursued Valentino for six months until he gave her an exclusive. Anyhow, as fashion director, Anita is a great stylist and costume designer who has done work on several Bollywood films like Dhoom 2, Being Cyrus, and Love Aaj Kal. I love the sheer tunic with accents that showcase her culture.
Christiane Arp (Germany) - She may look like an ice queen (reminds me of Estella from Great Expectations), but that’s because she was given the tough job of putting Germany on the fashion map. While German design is known for automobiles and architecture, not much is said of fashion design. She’s also a stylist-editor like Carine Roitfeld and Anna Wintour.
Angelica Cheung (China) - Another top editor is Angelica Cheung (standing, wearing a glittery top) in her trademark asymmetrical bob. Before joining Vogue China, she was editorial director of Chinese Elle and EIC of Marie Claire Hong Kong. China is such an exciting market fashion-wise so the educational slant she’s attempting right now with Vogue China would certainly help shape the market.
Franca Sozzani (Italy) - As one of the most amazing women in fashion, fashion journalist Franca Sozzani has been editing Vogue Italia since 1988. Hers is one of the most fascinating editions of Vogue—Hinged on art, culture, with non-commercial editorials, and basically a photographer’s wet dream with the kind of artistic freedom she gives her usual collaborators like Steven Meisel, Peter Lindbergh, and Paolo Roversi. Among all the other Vogue editors, I can relate mostly to her style (as with Carine and Emmanuelle) especially with this lace dress (I love!).
Mitsuko Watanabe (Japan) - Last year, three kawaii Lolita-clad girls crashed Tom Ford’s ultra-secret fashion week party, saying they were Vogue Nippon EIC Mitsuko Watanabe. What a coup! Anyhow, she’s the host of this momentous photo-op event, so it’s just about right that she’s standing behind Fashion Night Out creator, Anna Wintour.
Anna Wintour (US) - I don’t know what else to say about Anna, except that she picked out her ensemble really well for this shoot—Hermès orange with black stripes top over a textured skirt with bejeweled fringes. Très madame chic! 
Alexandra Shulman (Britain) - Seated right beside Anna is one of my favorite editors Alexandra Shulman. While she’s not a fashion plate like the other editors (she certainly admits she’s not a fashion person), she’s a fantastic curator of content, and an even greater manager at that. 
Emmanuelle Alt (France) - I’ve done an entire post on how Emmanuelle is slowly growing on me, but even more so now after seeing this photo. She wears her white coat and black pants so elegantly, even adding a minaudiere for a girly touch. 
Victoria Davydova (Russia) - Now I know we all miss former Vogue Russia EIC Aliona Doletskaya (who is now set to launch two European editions of Interview magazine—in Russia and Germany) but we should give Victoria a chance. She was first EIC of Russian Glamour and then Tatler. She’s one of the rare EICs who start out as beauty editors, instead of coming from the fashion or lifestyle beat.
Anna Harvey (Brazil and Greece) - This British Vogue veteran was behind the launch of Russian Vogue in 1998 and Vogue India in 2007. Well, she’s not really from Vogue Brazil or Greek Vogue—she’s just standing in for the absentee EICs. 
Seda Domanic (Turkey) - Just barely a year old, Turkish Vogue was launched with Canadian model Jessica Stam on the cover. Seda Domanic is actually a journalist who currently hosts CNBC World’s Business Turkey. I’m just curious as to why she chose this shade of blue for the shoot, and how she feels now that it looks as if this color is jumping right off the page (#justsaying). 
Myung Hee Lee (Korea) - One of my favorite editions of Vogue is curated by this 귀여워 (cute) editor Myung Hee Lee. (Don’t you just love her smile and pose?) Her editorials border on Japanese surrealism with a tight French styling. And as with the Korean aesthetic, all photos are simply beautiful. 
 Rosalie Huang (Taiwan) - Standing right behind her is Vogue Taiwan EIC Rosalie Huang who heads not only the magazine, but also the exclusive online real-time fashion show for Vogue TV called STYLEblog Fashion News. I’ve never seen a copy of Vogue Taiwan—I wish I got one during one of Metro’s shoots in Taipei but our shoot schedule was way too hectic.
 Eva Hughes (Mexico and Latin America) - As EIC for the Mexico and Latin America editions of Vogue, Eva Hughes is responsible for generating fashion buzz in South America. I like her ‘let’s work’ pose and her choice of red (gotta stand out in a sea of editors).
Paula Mateus (Portugal) - Last but not the least is editor Paula Mateus who was criticized recently for reprinting the Vogue Paris June/July editorial with model Karmen Pedaru for her August 2011 cover. 
Did I miss anyone? Who’s your favorite VOGUE editor-in-chief?

styleanthologist:

In the biggest casting coup to date, Vogue editors join forces in a photoshoot with Frederic Aranda for Fashion Night Out Tokyo. In a rare showing, the editors converged to support Japan as it recovers from the earthquake and tsunami disasters this year.

See who’s who from left to right:

Yolanda Sacristan (Spain) - Seated, wearing a sheer long-sleeved top and a black maxi skirt that showed off her legs. Don’t you just love her jade-encrusted cocktail ring and her bracelets? 

Kirstie Clements (Australia) - She’s not a socialite like the other editors, and even if Vogue Australia has gotten a lot of criticism for reprinting editorials, the products she features are very accessible and she likes having a lot of illustration on her pages—remember that Vogue 50th anniversary special with Cate Blanchett on the cover? I’m not a big fan of her frumpy polka-dot-top, but I’m sure she looks better standing than sitting down.

Anaita Adajania (India) - Sitting at the back is Anaita Shroll Adajania who is actually Vogue India’s Fashion Director (the EIC is Priya Tanna). I wish Priya Tanna had a chance to be in this shoot because she’s a true fashion journalist—she pursued Valentino for six months until he gave her an exclusive. Anyhow, as fashion director, Anita is a great stylist and costume designer who has done work on several Bollywood films like Dhoom 2, Being Cyrus, and Love Aaj Kal. I love the sheer tunic with accents that showcase her culture.

Christiane Arp (Germany) - She may look like an ice queen (reminds me of Estella from Great Expectations), but that’s because she was given the tough job of putting Germany on the fashion map. While German design is known for automobiles and architecture, not much is said of fashion design. She’s also a stylist-editor like Carine Roitfeld and Anna Wintour.

Angelica Cheung (China) - Another top editor is Angelica Cheung (standing, wearing a glittery top) in her trademark asymmetrical bob. Before joining Vogue China, she was editorial director of Chinese Elle and EIC of Marie Claire Hong Kong. China is such an exciting market fashion-wise so the educational slant she’s attempting right now with Vogue China would certainly help shape the market.

Franca Sozzani (Italy) - As one of the most amazing women in fashion, fashion journalist Franca Sozzani has been editing Vogue Italia since 1988. Hers is one of the most fascinating editions of Vogue—Hinged on art, culture, with non-commercial editorials, and basically a photographer’s wet dream with the kind of artistic freedom she gives her usual collaborators like Steven Meisel, Peter Lindbergh, and Paolo Roversi. Among all the other Vogue editors, I can relate mostly to her style (as with Carine and Emmanuelle) especially with this lace dress (I love!).

Mitsuko Watanabe (Japan) - Last year, three kawaii Lolita-clad girls crashed Tom Ford’s ultra-secret fashion week party, saying they were Vogue Nippon EIC Mitsuko Watanabe. What a coup! Anyhow, she’s the host of this momentous photo-op event, so it’s just about right that she’s standing behind Fashion Night Out creator, Anna Wintour.

Anna Wintour (US) - I don’t know what else to say about Anna, except that she picked out her ensemble really well for this shoot—Hermès orange with black stripes top over a textured skirt with bejeweled fringes. Très madame chic! 

Alexandra Shulman (Britain) - Seated right beside Anna is one of my favorite editors Alexandra Shulman. While she’s not a fashion plate like the other editors (she certainly admits she’s not a fashion person), she’s a fantastic curator of content, and an even greater manager at that. 

Emmanuelle Alt (France) - I’ve done an entire post on how Emmanuelle is slowly growing on me, but even more so now after seeing this photo. She wears her white coat and black pants so elegantly, even adding a minaudiere for a girly touch. 

Victoria Davydova (Russia) - Now I know we all miss former Vogue Russia EIC Aliona Doletskaya (who is now set to launch two European editions of Interview magazine—in Russia and Germany) but we should give Victoria a chance. She was first EIC of Russian Glamour and then Tatler. She’s one of the rare EICs who start out as beauty editors, instead of coming from the fashion or lifestyle beat.

Anna Harvey (Brazil and Greece) - This British Vogue veteran was behind the launch of Russian Vogue in 1998 and Vogue India in 2007. Well, she’s not really from Vogue Brazil or Greek Vogue—she’s just standing in for the absentee EICs. 

Seda Domanic (Turkey) - Just barely a year old, Turkish Vogue was launched with Canadian model Jessica Stam on the cover. Seda Domanic is actually a journalist who currently hosts CNBC World’s Business Turkey. I’m just curious as to why she chose this shade of blue for the shoot, and how she feels now that it looks as if this color is jumping right off the page (#justsaying). 

Myung Hee Lee (Korea) - One of my favorite editions of Vogue is curated by this 귀여워 (cute) editor Myung Hee Lee. (Don’t you just love her smile and pose?) Her editorials border on Japanese surrealism with a tight French styling. And as with the Korean aesthetic, all photos are simply beautiful. 

 Rosalie Huang (Taiwan) - Standing right behind her is Vogue Taiwan EIC Rosalie Huang who heads not only the magazine, but also the exclusive online real-time fashion show for Vogue TV called STYLEblog Fashion News. I’ve never seen a copy of Vogue Taiwan—I wish I got one during one of Metro’s shoots in Taipei but our shoot schedule was way too hectic.

 Eva Hughes (Mexico and Latin America) - As EIC for the Mexico and Latin America editions of Vogue, Eva Hughes is responsible for generating fashion buzz in South America. I like her ‘let’s work’ pose and her choice of red (gotta stand out in a sea of editors).

Paula Mateus (Portugal) - Last but not the least is editor Paula Mateus who was criticized recently for reprinting the Vogue Paris June/July editorial with model Karmen Pedaru for her August 2011 cover. 

Did I miss anyone? Who’s your favorite VOGUE editor-in-chief?

02

Nov

The next big thing. I promise.

(Source: gracefraydeen)

01

Nov

misswallflower:

by Man Ray, 1929

misswallflower:

by Man Ray, 1929

futurejournalismproject:

Forty years ago, a group of feminists, led by Gloria Steinem, did the unthinkable: They started a magazine for women, published by women — and the first issue sold out in eight days. — New York Magazine.

In the years leading up to the birth of Ms., women had trouble getting a credit card without a man’s signature, had few legal rights when it came to divorce or reproduction, and were expected to aspire solely to marriage and motherhood. Job listings were segregated (“Help wanted, male”). There was no Title IX (banning sex discrimination in federally funded athletic programs); no battered-women’s shelters, rape-crisis centers, and no terms such as sexual harassment and domestic violence.
Few women ran magazines, even when the readership was entirely female, and they weren’t permitted to write the stories they felt were important; the focus had to be on fashion, recipes, cosmetics, or how to lure a man and keep him interested.  “When I suggested political stories to The New York Times Sunday Magazine, my editor just said something like, ‘I don’t think of you that way,’ ” recalls Gloria Steinem. “It was all pale male faces in, on, and running media,” says Robin Morgan, who was Ms.’s editor in the late eighties and early nineties.
But in the mid-sixties, feminist organizations such as New York Radical Women,Redstockings, and NOW began to emerge. On March 18, 1970, about a hundred women stormed into the male editor’s office of Ladies’ Home Journal and staged a sit-in for eleven hours, demanding that the magazine hire a female editor-in-chief. Says feminist activist-writer Vivian Gornick, “It was a watershed moment. It showed us, the activists in the women’s movement, that we did, indeed, have a movement.”

Image: Ms. staff meeting in June 1972. From left: Letty Cottin Pogrebin, Gloria Steinem, Margaret Sloan-Hunter, Suzanne Levine, Mary Thom, Harriet Lyons, Patricia Carbine, and Ruth Sullivan. Photo by Nancy Crampton.

futurejournalismproject:

Forty years ago, a group of feminists, led by Gloria Steinem, did the unthinkable: They started a magazine for women, published by women — and the first issue sold out in eight days. — New York Magazine.

In the years leading up to the birth of Ms., women had trouble getting a credit card without a man’s signature, had few legal rights when it came to divorce or reproduction, and were expected to aspire solely to marriage and motherhood. Job listings were segregated (“Help wanted, male”). There was no Title IX (banning sex discrimination in federally funded athletic programs); no battered-women’s shelters, rape-crisis centers, and no terms such as sexual harassment and domestic violence.

Few women ran magazines, even when the readership was entirely female, and they weren’t permitted to write the stories they felt were important; the focus had to be on fashion, recipes, cosmetics, or how to lure a man and keep him interested. “When I suggested political stories to The New York Times Sunday Magazine, my editor just said something like, ‘I don’t think of you that way,’ ” recalls Gloria Steinem. “It was all pale male faces in, on, and running media,” says Robin Morgan, who was Ms.’s editor in the late eighties and early nineties.

But in the mid-sixties, feminist organizations such as New York Radical Women,Redstockings, and NOW began to emerge. On March 18, 1970, about a hundred women stormed into the male editor’s office of Ladies’ Home Journal and staged a sit-in for eleven hours, demanding that the magazine hire a female editor-in-chief. Says feminist activist-writer Vivian Gornick, “It was a watershed moment. It showed us, the activists in the women’s movement, that we did, indeed, have a movement.”

ImageMs. staff meeting in June 1972. From left: Letty Cottin Pogrebin, Gloria Steinem, Margaret Sloan-Hunter, Suzanne Levine, Mary Thom, Harriet Lyons, Patricia Carbine, and Ruth Sullivan. Photo by Nancy Crampton.

Style versus Fashion

What is STYLE and how is it different from FASHION? I’ve been plagued by this questions ever since I took on the task of becoming a fashion journalist, and while my definition may change over time, I find that I always gravitate towards defining style as something intrinsic to the individual and Fashion as something that is part of the zeitgeist. Thus Style is shaped by an individual’s unique background, upbringing, opportunities, and exposure; while Fashion is shaped by the era, current environment, trends, political situation, and more. So when Yves Saint Laurent said: Fashion fades, style is eternal—he couldn’t have defined it better. Even as he was indirectly discrediting Fashion (on how we shouldn’t be hinged on something as fleeting as fashion and we should stick to knowing our style—something I completely agree with) it’s important to note that he was actually comparing how ephemeral Fashion really is. Fashion does fade, because consciousness always shifts towards the new. Fashion, then, strives to be current. Thus, Fashion is always relevant, it’s always there in the sidelines, reacting and sometimes influencing the current state of things. But once it changes (and it does change pretty fast) it becomes part of the past, and Fashion again renews itself to seek the new. 

This, and more, at my new blog: http://styleanthologist.tumblr.com

Check it out!